My friends needed a septic system that pumps uphill. Their house is at the low point on their plot and for years the septic system has not yet worked well. They required to fix it so they can have toilets which actually flush within the rain. An unusually wet Spring season has accented the problem so that they made the decision to spend the sizable sum of money to correct the issue.
The device consists of the regular septic tank then the septic effluent pump tank and after that a distribution tank located in the top of the hill. The newest septic tank must be placed so as never to disturb the previous tank so that the existing system could certainly be used during construction. The pump tank must be located slightly beneath the septic tank in order that gravity would flow the waste water to it. The septic tank effluent pump sits in the pump tank and pumps the water for the distribution tank high on the hill. From that point, this type of water will drain in to the field lines by gravity.
My job was to connect the sump pump and alarm to the electrical supply. The alarm is needed by the local sewer codes to create a visual and audible alarm in case the water level inside the pump tank exceed a certain level. This gives an early warning that there is one thing wrong using the sewer pump.
For reliability, the alarm should have their own separate circuit. If the alarm was powered from the supply to the pump and also the breaker tripped towards the pump, there would be no alarm. I installed the alarm inside the house so that it can simply be seen and heard as suggested by the local plumbing inspector. I connected the wires directly to the alarm panel and ran all of them inside conduit so it would be tamper resistant.
This house had an exterior breaker box originally installed for the AC addition. This box had a few extra spaces inside it that made a perfect location to pull power for the new septic pump system. I used a 20 AMP GFI breaker for your sump pump service and a 15 AMP standard breaker for the alarm. Their local ACE hardware had the right breakers with this older Square D box.
The most labor intensive part of the job was running the underground wires from your box in the front of the home to the septic field behind the home. A lot of the trench needed to be dug by hand as a result of close proximity from the AC compressor, flower beds and a sidewalk. A lot of the trench was dug by the plumping contractor using his backhoe.
A 12 gage wire was run for the pump along with a 14 gage wire for your alarm. The wire used was rated for direct burial so conduit was not needed. I did run conduit for added defense against the box down to the bottom of the 24 inch qiggkp trench each and every end of the wire. I used exactly the same 14 gage direct burial wire to extend the float wiring from the alarm unit to the field.
In the pump tank, I installed a weather proof single 20 AMP outlet on the 4×4 post. This is when the Myers Sewer pump is plugged in. The plug provides the required local disconnect because the breaker is not really within sight of the pump tank. The float wiring was placed in a separate junction box on the same post.
A piece of conduit was cut to suit to the neck in the tank so that the cord for the septic pump as well as the alarm float wiring would be protected. The conduit ends slightly below the outlet for the septic pump.
Our local inspector was satisfied with the facts and water proofing. I used a compression fitting towards the bottom of every conduit run and sealed it with silicone as well to prevent critters from finding their distance to the junction boxes.
I tied a period of rope to the sump pump, fastened the alarm float towards the outlet pipe and carefully lowered the sewer pump into position. I secured the free end from the rope to among the lifting lugs in the sewer pump tank. Now the plumbing contractor can finish his work to get their system operational. I am sure they will enjoy having the capacity to take baths and flush the toilet even when it rains.